Arbatu Ensessa

On the way to Yemrehanna Kristos, around 35km from Lalibela, is this three-quarter monolith church in a wild, overgrown but rather beautiful setting. It’s thought to have been built by King Kaleb in AD 518. Arbatu ensessa means ‘the four beasts’ after the four Evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. It’s five minutes’ walk from the road.

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